Hawaii 2024: 3) Mauna Kea

The highlight of our Hawaii trip was visiting Mauna Kea, the tallest mountain in Hawaii, with a peak of 13,803 feet (4,207 meters), making it the highest point I've ever been to in my life. Planning this part of the trip was challenging, particularly when it came to selecting the right rental car. Accessing Mauna Kea requires a true 4x4 vehicle with low gears—not just an AWD SUV—as the ranger at the visitor center will turn you away without the proper vehicle. In the end, I opted for a guided tour instead of renting a 4x4, and it turned out to be the right decision.

I always remembered Hawaii as sunny and hot, but this trip taught me that this impression was likely due to my previous visits being limited to the shorelines; the island's weather is incredibly unpredictable. Our tour began in the afternoon, taking Route 19 to Hilo. We first stopped at Waipi'o Lookout Point, enjoying clear skies and spectacular sea lines. However, just an hour later, when we reached Akaka Falls, it was pouring rain, and we soaked wet.

The tour started at Arnott's Lodge in Hilo, the largest city on the east side of the island. While we had the option to take a tour bus from the lodge, we chose to drive our own car to the Mauna Kea visitor center for convenience, given that our hotel in Waikoloa Village is on the west side and Mauna Kea is centrally located. On the way, we stopped by Rainbow Falls, which was beautiful, but the weather was still changing minute by minute.

The drive up to the visitor center was a spectacular showcase of nature. It was still pouring when we entered Mauna Kea Access Road, but as we ascended, the rain gradually subsided, and a clear blue sky greeted us. We literally broke through the clouds!

The Mauna Kea Visitor Center, also known as the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy, is located at an altitude of 9,300 feet (2,800 meters). We stayed there for about an hour to acclimate to the high altitude and have dinner. As there were no restaurants on-site, we had to bring our own food.

The road to the summit was unpaved but not as steep as I had feared. However, choosing a guided tour proved to be the right decision for several reasons. Besides not having to drive myself, our guide, Donna, was incredibly kind and knowledgeable. She pointed out many notable sites, including observatories like Gemini, Subaru, and Caltech. She also knew the best spots and angles for family photos, allowing us to capture some truly wonderful memories. 

And then there was the sunset. I still struggle to find the right words to describe it. It was the most breathtaking sunset I have ever witnessed. There was literally a sea of clouds below us, with the ocean horizon visible in the distance. Seeing both 'seas' simultaneously was a first for me and an experience that transcends simple descriptions like 'terrific' or 'marvelous.' It felt almost divine.

The end of dusk didn't bring regret but rather led to another incredible experience: stargazing. With no moonlight, the conditions were perfect. I could see the Milky Way with my naked eyes. Even with my iPhone 15 Pro Max and unsteady hands (having forgotten my tripod), I managed to capture some wonderful astrophotographs. I truly believe that choosing Arnott's Mauna Kea Adventure Tour was the best decision we made for the trip; don't rent a 4x4 if you plan to visit Mauna Kea for your first time.